Instead buying one, why not build my version? Like Like. I have opened Joystick example from GitHub. It is setup in Processor Express for dual axis joystick. I need to extend for four axis and use more switches. How to do it? Hi Marceli, to add more push buttons, simply indrease the number in the component. For the multiple axis, you have to go into the USB code and extend it. Best if you could then extend the component code and contribute it back?
It seems is simple to extend the code making new selectable methods for three and four axis by PE. What CodeWarrior environment I need use to make it very fast. Regards, Marceli. Do you really need CodeWarrior? Not sure what is wrong on your side. I would first start with a project without any ethernet support. Is this tutorial with KDS or with codewarrior? Because here it looks like codewarrior but on github the folder the project is in is KDS. It is for KDS. But it works the same way with minor changes project creation for CodeWarrior too.
I have sent you as well the updated component by email to your Yahoo email address. I hope this fixes the problem, and thank you so much for reporting it!Igor has made good investigation and big work in implementing USB protocol on microcontroller. So I decided to take his design as a basis and implement everything what is needed for joystick on top. I chose ATMega8 as it was cheap and easy to get component for the design. Cheers, Igor!
Next it was time for investigating HID firmware implementation. After intensive evening work for couple of weeks I managed to get this controller working. The connection of controller to joystick sensors and buttons is very simple. In this schematic it is shown with potentiometers but it may be also some other axis position sensors — magnetic, optic and other. I am also working on connecting this controller to my UR Gear modified helmet. ADC inputs in this design take the voltages from 0 to 5 volts as full range.
But smaller range is possible. Capacitors used here are filtering ones and usually have value of 0. The controller has no PCB design ready and you will have to create your own.
My piece is made on generic drilled PCB with several wires connecting the components:. I would be very thankful to anyone who could build the PCB and would send one piece to me. It's a joke. The software version published here is for one of possible joystick configuration.
This is for 6 axis, 8 position hat switch, 24 buttons joystick:. If you have ATMega16 or greater you can have even more axes and buttons. The AVR Studio 4 project file with source code and assembled binary for this controller version is here:. There may be huge amount of other possible configurations. If you need custom configuration you could build your own. It was tested on Windows and Windows XP computers.
This controller does not have automatic calibration function. But it may be implemented in future. For now you will need to calibrate this joystick using standard Windows joystick calibration procedure.Jump to navigation. You need to use YOUR joystick, a weapon of battle customized specifically for you.
On the contrary — building an arcade stick is much easier than it appears. With a little bit of technical know-how, the right tools, and good old fashioned elbow grease, you can build a fully customizable, easy-to-repair arcade stick for a fraction of the cost of buying one. Part customization is the main draw of building your own arcade stick. Kits like these include all the important components of a joystick except the case bundled together for cheap!
You can usually find them for around ish dollars, give or take, which is far less than you would pay for each part individually. Most joysticks come fully assembled and ready to be put into your build of choice.
I personally find it to be the best joystick on the market, but other people swear by Seimitsu brand sticks, or even American made joysticks. Which one you choose is largely up to personal preference, but the basics remain the same.
Your joystick will come with a mounting plate, a restrictor gate, a joystick top, and four wires, each corresponding to a different direction. The mounting plate is what you will eventually screw into or otherwise attach to your joystick case. The restrictor gate determines where your joystick can move. The two most commonly used in the pro gaming community are square gates, which is what most professional sticks use, and octagonal gates, which give your arcade stick less room to move but provide physical feedback when you hit a cardinal or diagonal direction.
Once again this is up to personal preference. The joystick top simply screws on and off.
If you want a ball shaped top, a bat shaped top, or something completely different, just screw off the one you have and put a new one on. Finally, the four wires will be attached to our PCB printed circuit board to make the stick work. Anything that can register four different directional inputs will work just fine.
You can, if you like, use buttons instead of a joystick to create your very own homemade Hitbox-style controller. Image via aabyssx on YouTube. You are going to need a button for every button you would normally have on a standard controller. Buttons are cheap, but varied, and the choices can be overwhelming. Once again, we see the age old Sanwa vs.
Seimitsu vs. American manufacturer debate here. In general, Sanwa buttons are what you are used to in MadCatz and Hori sticks, Seimitsu buttons are a little bit stiffer and feel more like a keyboard key, and American made buttons have that hefty plunger click that we are all used to from our childhood arcade days.
But there are even more choices to make. What size buttons do you want? The standard is 30 millimeter, but some people like smaller or larger buttons. Do you want your buttons to screw in or snap in? Snap-in buttons are fine for thin cases while screw-in buttons are needed for thicker cases, such as ones made out of wood. Since buttons are so cheap usually retailing for a dollar or lessI recommend buying a couple of different buttons before embarking on your stick making project, just to see how they feel.
Believe it or not, the case is the most expensive part of any arcade stick build. You can find pre-made cases for about dollars online, and some sites will even custom make your case for you. But really, any box will do.Out of the box the Arduino Leonardo and the Arduino Micro appear to the host computer as a generic keyboard and mouse. This project will only work with Arduino products based on the ATmega32u4 microcontroller i. The Arduino Joystick Library a. Game Controller library used in the Instructable provides the following:.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. The latest version of the Arduino library that allows the Arduino Leonardo and Micro to appear as a Game Controller can be downloaded from the following GitHub repository:.
The library or libraries should now appear in the Arduino IDE list of libraries. Included in the library is a test sketch, called UsbJoystickTest.
The following steps are for Windows 7. If you have a different version of Windows or a different operating system, these steps may differ. The Arduino Micro or Arduino Leonardo should appear in the list of devices. Right mouse click on the Arduino Leonardo or Arduino Micro to display the settings menu. The Arduino Leonardo or Micro should appear in the list of installed game controllers.
Select the Arduino Leonardo or Micro and click the Properties button to display the game controller test dialog. While this dialog has focus, ground pin A0 on the Arduino to activate the test script. The test script will test the game controller functionality in the following order:. Once you have verified the Arduino Leonardo or Micro is working as a Game Controller, you can start creating your own Game Controller projects.
The attached Arduino sketch file is a simple example that reads digital pins 9, 10, 11, and 12 and maps them to buttons 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the Game Controller. Starts emulating a game controller connected to a computer. By default all methods update the game controller state immediately. If initAutoSendState is set to false, the Joystick. Sets the state 0 or 1 of the specified button 0 - The button is the 0-based button number i.
The value is 1 if the button is pressed and 0 if the button is released. Press the indicated button 0 - Release the indicated button 0 - Sets the value of the specified hat switch. The hatSwitch is 0-based i. Set the value to -1 to release the hat switch.
Sends the updated joystick state to the host computer. Only needs to be called if AutoSendState is false see Joystick. Additional information about this Arduino Joystick Library can be found on the following websites:. Question 6 months ago on Introduction. Reply 7 months ago. Good question, and conspicuously absent in the above article.
The port expanders have individual addresses so you can add up to 8 of them, each giving 16 more inputs. Reply 2 years ago. There are various techniques one can use to support more than one button per digital input pin.In this instructables I will show you how you can build your own joystick using Arduino and RF transceiver.
I used a joystick module and 5 buttons. You can implement your own choice. You may use any Arduino board or standalone ATmega microcontroller for the transmitter unit but it is convenient to use Arduino Micro, Pro Micro, DUE or Leonardo for the receiver unit because all the board used 32U4 controller comes equipped with a full-speed USB transceiver.
Low cost MHz RF transceiver was used for wireless communication. I always miss 3D printer when build any project. You can make a cool 3D for printed cage if you have access to 3D printer to bring more professional look. You can easily modify it to work as wireless keyboard, wireless mouse or wireless presenter. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
My wireless joystick has two parts. Another is transmitter and this is the actual joystick in your hand. Let's make receiver first as it has less connections required. I assumed you have some soldering experience, if not you may try this instructables How-to-solder. First, you need to desolder 4 pins header from the receiver unit.
It will help you to easily adjust the receiver to Pro Micro board. Now, you should connect the RF receiver to the Pro Micro. RF receiver has 4 pins. Basically two data pins are one pin. I used jumper wire to connect two things together like figures. After soldering you have to fix two things together. For that I used a insulator between them otherwise these may short circuited accidentally and may damaged the receiver or Pro Micro.
If you followed the previous steps you are in the final stage of making receiver. Use glue or tap or band to fix all the things. I used rubber band to do the job.
Pictures are added. I missed one thing. You may used a short piece of jumper wire as antenna which will increase the rang of your wireless joystick. I think you already made your receiver. Just upload the following program to the receiver to make it complete. You will notice in the sketch three library ware used. You can learn more about keyboard and mouse library from Sparkfun tutorial.
Our receiver unit is ready. Now, it is the time to make main thing the joystick. I used one x-y axis joystick module and 5 momentary buttons for the things.
For the shortage of time I used veroboard for the complete task but a PCB board will definitely make it more reliable and more beautiful. I think a typical veroboard is enough. Fritzing board layout for the complete system with source file are attached below. First, solder 5 momentary buttons at the right side of the board.The arcade joystick itself is made from scratch using micro roller switches, no pre-made arcade joystick module used before hand. I got this idea from someone in the Maker Faire Singapore, where I remembered someonedone the same thing, except way better than mine.
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How To...Build A DIY USB Joystick
The case is made out mainly of Acrylic pieces. A white piece and another type of clear plastic not acrylic, a thin piece of plastic, from some packaging was used to cover the top and mount the joystick and buttons respectively. Holes were cut into the top pieces of plastic to mount the Arcade buttons, and for the stick of the joystick to be slid in and used.
As for the wiring, I basically connected all the switches and buttons to ground and left an extra pin to be connected to the gpio to an input pullup for the microcontroller.
The roller switches would have to be hot glued on the back side of the white piece of acrylic, at the edges of the hole for the dowel. The idea would be to glue the switches such that whenever the stick moves up, down, left or right, a corresponding switch would be pressed. Keep the switches close together such that when the joystick moves diagonally eg up-right2 of the respective switches would be pressed.
However, take note to adjust the position of the switches how close it is to the hole before hand, to the sensitivity you want. Else, you will get into a big mess when changing it. When you are satisfied, you can put the case together and move on to the next step.
In this case I used a Teensy 3. Take note to wire the switches correctly. When you move the joystick in one direction, you are actually pressing the switch in the opposite direction Move up presses the down switch.
So the down switch should be mapped to up, left mapped to right etc. Don't use Keyboard. By Hackin7 Follow. More by the author:.
This is an arcade joystick I made. Add Teacher Note. The main stick of the joystick is a wooden dowel, cut appropriately to size. Attachments ArcadeJoystick.This instructable will show how to make a custom arcade stick with off the shelf parts. It won't require any power tools or woodworking knowledge.
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The key to this simple DIY is the premade arcade enclosure. This particular enclosure has a thick acrylic panel which is nice. This encoder is a zero delay encoder and doesn't require any soldering. It's modular and plugs to your buttons with the included wire quick disconnects. You'll need 8 30mm push buttons and a joystick.
If quality matters then stick to Sanwa buttons and joystick but it'll bump up the costs. This step is optional and will add some complexity to this build. If you want to add your own artwork, you'll need something to sandwich your artwork. Using plexiglass or lexan will require power tools to drill and cut the holes. By f1racer Follow.
More by the author:. Add Teacher Note. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Embed Tinkercad Designs in Instructables by bekathwia in Websites. Large Motors Class 14, Enrolled.